Saturday, December 01, 2007

Seoul Living: War Memorial of Korea


This statue, called "Brothers", represents two brothers - one fighting for the Republic of Korea (South Korea) and one fighting for the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea) - who are torn apart by the Korean war. Here, they meet in a field and embrace each other. I like the statue a lot, but can't help but think, "Hey, why is the South Korean soldier the older brother?"


A few weeks ago, I decided to visit the War Memorial of Korea (English website here, where the Ideal Korean Family does not look nearly as happy as they do here). There were the far share of outside memorial-type monuments, but the Memorial is, in fact, a museum. You know me and museums! And this was quite a good one!


The Korean War Memorial represents the separation of the two Koreas.



Although the museum technically covers the entire history of war on the Korean peninsula since the Joseon period (yeah, turtle ships!), it focuses a lot on the Korean War (1950-1953). (What would I do without Wikipedia, right?!?)


I've seen this before -it looks just like the monument of the Communist revolutionaries in China. Hmmm, interesting! This half of the monument represents the South Korean troops lookin' tough!




North Korean side of the patriotic fighters monument.



I get the feeling that most Americans sort of think of 20th Century History in terms of two wars: World War II ("Yay! We won!") and the Vietnam Conflict ("Boo, we lost!"). Somehow the Korean War gets lost in there. Sure, one could argue that was the only U.N. commanded war in history, but it isn't as if the US didn't send as many troops or just as many soldiers didn't die (check out the comparisons here). So that the WWII-Vietnam definition of the 20th century is so embedded in most Americans' minds while the Korean War is not leaves me a bit puzzled. Does it mean we were better at restoring "peace" on the Korean Peninsula? Does the success of South Korea (and relative nuttiness of the North Korean regime) justify the history of war in some way? I'm still trying to figure it out.


Outside the museum building, there are loads of old tanks, planes, and miscellaneous war vehicles from the Korean War. Most of the big stuff, like this plane, were US Air Force stock.



Technically, the Korean War has not ended formally, although recent happenings suggest that this might end. Indeed, to understand the origins, events, and aftermath of the Korean War is to understand just why North and South Korea - and much Northeast Asian domestic and international affairs - are the way they are today. Toss in a little bit the history of the Korea under Japanese rule (OMG, Wikipedia, what would I do without you?), and you'll understand much more.

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